How to Transition Your Pet Food Gradually

Pet Health

pet food

Back in 1999 when I graduated veterinary school, there was just one semester course that covered the basics of animal nutrition from chicken to goat to horse to dog. Over the last several decades, the way pet professionals and owners have come to think about nutrition has vastly changed.

Boutique pet foods are all the rage as we look into healthy pet food diets: grain-free, non-GMO containing, and organic. And, the question, “what food should I buy my dog?” can be confusing if you’re looking for the best and healthy dog food to feed your furry friend.

What we do know is that pets’ nutritional needs often vary throughout their lifetime based on age, stage, breed, activity level, and health conditions. New data on pet nutrition also includes macro and micro nutrient needs, composition, ingredient source and quality. It’s safe to assume that at some point during your pet’s life you will be changing dog food and perhaps multiple times over the course of years.

Switching Pet Food Gradually

When is the first time you will likely consider changing your pet’s food? Maybe it’s as soon as bringing them home from the breeder or rescue. It may be when your juvenile pet reaches physical maturity, for some small breeds closer to a year, for larger dogs around two years old. It’s important to evaluate your dog’s individual calorie and nutrient needs and choose a food based on their age, stage, and breed.

We know large breed puppies like the Great Pyrenees and Newfoundland require a specific balance of calcium and phosphorous in order to help prevent orthopedic diseases such as panosteitis and hip dysplasia. During the period of rapid growth from 3-6 months, switching to a proper food, if your pup had not previously been fed one specific to large breeds, is critical to minimizing the development of osteoarthritis and joint disease down the road.

Likewise, as pet’s age, their activity may decrease necessitating a transition to a less calorically dense diet or one that contains more high-quality protein to maintain muscle mass, and fatty acids such as EPA and DHA for their anti-inflammatory and dermatological effects.

Digestion in Dogs

Your dog may be growing appropriately and have firm, twice daily bowel movements. Until they don’t. Diagnostic tests performed by your veterinarian may uncover common diseases like intestinal parasitism, food allergy or intolerance, or exocrine pancreatic insufficiency, common among German Shepard Dogs that lead to poor digestion and absorption of nutrients. These dogs may be losing weight, have diarrhea, and appear to have poor coat quality.

Switching to a diet that has a new protein source such as venison or duck or changing to a diet low in fat that is highly digestible and adding in some digestive enzymes may be all that is needed to correct the problem. Any time a lifelong change in diet is expected, only do so after consulting your veterinarian.

Unless your pet is experiencing an adverse reaction to a pet food ingredient or gastrointestinal symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, or inappetence, switching dog food is best done gradually. Some dogs are particularly sensitive to any changes in their food composition, even within the same pet food brand.

Tips for Changing Dog Food

In general, I recommend exchanging a quarter of the dog’s original food with the new diet for 3-4 days, then increasing the new food: old food ratio to 50:50 for another 3-4 days and so on. Probiotics such as Fortiflora can help prevent any bacterial imbalance in the gut, perpetuating the diarrhea. Most successful dog food transition plans encompass a period of 10 days to 2 weeks.

Some pet owners prefer to alternate between 2-3 foods and rotate successfully between brands every few months. There are many delicious and nutritious diets to choose from and some dogs are able to switch between several pet food brands with no adverse effects.

Most pet owners have experienced the joy of waking to a rug soiled by a dog who ingested something in the yard, last night’s meatloaf from the garbage can, or whose new food didn’t sit quite right.

In that case, an abrupt switch to a low-fat, bland prescription or homemade diet made of chicken or boiled hamburger and rice or white pasta, scrambled eggs, or cottage cheese to get their stools back on track after a 24 hour fast is best. I recommend feeding a bland diet for 5-7 days, and then gradually mixing in their regular pet food over a period of two weeks.

Check in with your local veterinarian if you have any questions to ensure a healthy and successful pet food plan!

Training Tips for Your Dog

Dog Behavior

Pbc Training Tips Blog 1500x1200

As a “pet parent”, it can be easy to overlook some behaviors that others find undesirable and that may cause you occasional grief. To be a good citizen of the world, safeguard your pet around other dogs and humans, give them a “job” and mental stimulation, and receive the maximum enjoyment pet ownership can provide, it is vital to train your dog with skills needed to operate in a domesticated setting.

While it is easier to teach a puppy new tricks, dog training is necessary and ongoing at every age. Whether you participate in dog training classes, seek out a professional dog trainer, or watch training videos, here are skills every dog owner should teach their dog.

Important Skills to Train Your Dog

Socializing Your Dog

One of the most important skills to teach your puppy is how to be social. While it may seem that dogs, as pack animals, would inherently seek and enjoy the company of others, this is not always the case. A critical developmental window exists from 4 to 14 weeks and puppies who are not exposed to other dogs, little humans, loud humans, and hat-wearing humans during this period may become unaccustomed and fearful of interactions later in life.

Most training techniques, especially at this age, include positive reinforcement. Whether your puppy is motivated by food or affection or a special toy, it’s best to reward them with their favorite thing while in the presence of other dogs and people of all shapes, sizes, and volumes.

House Training

House training, when done correctly, is simple as it speaks to the dog’s instinctual need to keep their den clean. For puppies and adult dogs, the best training tool for housebreaking will be a sturdy wire crate that is just large enough for the pup to stand up and turn around. Crates can be soft sided or plastic and hard sided if you and your dog prefer, but I like the collapsible metal crates with a removable pan that I can move around the house, easily clean, and modify in size as the dog grows.

Dogs can be fed in their cozy kennel or presented with a delicious treat every time they enter their crate. As soon as you open the crate door, expect to take your pup to eliminate in a consistent spot outside and use a command such as “potty”. When immediately rewarded for urinating or defecating outside, and by catching them immediately inside and correcting the mistake, house training can take just a few weeks.

Basic Commands: Sit, Stay, Come, & Leave it

Sit, stay, and come are the three most common commands taught in beginner classes and are the foundation for further skills training and behavior modification programs. By teaching your dog to sit and stay, their minds become engaged and they learn deference to the human at the end of the leash. When a dog’s role is clearly defined in the “pack” and social order is established, it’s reassuring and permits them to relax, gain confidence, and focus.

From a safety perspective, sit, stay, and come are often used when guests are welcomed into the home, or during an emergency such as car or aggressive animal heading toward a loose pet. If a dog can consistently be recalled on or off leash, it can be the difference between life and death.

Leave-it is an oft used command in our house and in the animal assisted therapy work I do at the local hospital. When an object is dropped on the ground (think grapes or a chicken bone) or you come across something you want your dog to ignore and not ingest or approach (bandage material or a skunk), leave-it gives your dog the message to back away for their own good!

Training your dog to go to its place, bed or kennel is done by having your pet in a sit and stay in a specific location while giving the command and a food reward. This command will help you to position your dog for sleep, when the doorbell rings, it’s dinnertime and you don’t want distraction, or to keep your pet away from open doors or guests who may not want slobbery kisses.

pet training

Breaking Barking Habits

Barking can be the bane of anyone’s existence, especially if you have just gotten a cranky baby to sleep! Personally, I like it when my dogs alert me to a stranger at the door. But I don’t need to know every time a squirrel climbs the fence. Consistency is imperative when teaching any skill including “quiet” so make sure everyone in the house is reinforcing the same behavior.

Yelling at the dog can be perceived as “barking”  by your canine and the negative attention can be surprisingly pleasing to a dog. Rewarding a quiet pup or teaching an incompatible behavior like going to their bed is best!

Remove the stimulus for barking by closing the drapes or limiting access to the front door if the doorbell is a trigger. Don’t set your dog up to fail as the longer an undesirable behavior has been performed, the longer it can take to un-train. What are the most important skills you’ve taught your dog?

Expert Dog Tips from Dr. Lisa

Making Friends: Socializing Your Dog With Humans and Other Dogs

Dog Behavior

dog socialization

According to the ASPCA’s National Pet Rehoming survey conducted in 2015, 47% of the 3.3 million dogs surrendered to shelters are relinquished due to “pet problems”  including aggression, undesirable behaviors, and eventual adult size of the pet. So much is known about dog and puppy behavior, training, and optimizing adoption success of a new pet, there is much room for a decrease in these numbers.

Whether it’s a new puppy, an adult dog moving into a home with existing pets, or a senior dog with some behavioral “baggage” to unpack, some items to keep in mind to help socialize your dog with other dogs and humans include:

  • Preparation
  • Setting realistic expectations
  • Consistency
  • Obedience training
  • Confidence building in your pet
  • Seeking expert advice from a veterinarian
  • Getting a trainer to facilitate formation of the human-animal bond

It is imperative to start your relationship with your dog or puppy off on the right foot; that begins with proper socialization with humans and dogs from day one. While it is possible to correct previous socialization training “wrongs”  in an adult pet, the battle can be uphill, frustrating and often limited. Let’s talk about introducing a new puppy or dog into your home with the goal being a well-socialized, agreeable pet.

How to Socialize Your Dog

Understand personality traits. A new puppy is a veritable sponge, just waiting for you to impart knowledge and experiences which will shape future behavior. Dogs, like humans, have a natural tendency toward certain personality traits and selecting a breed or certain temperament of dog to match your lifestyle and expectations is critical. A naturally timid puppy will not do well in a home with young, unpredictable preschoolers, nor will a dominant dog thrive in an environment where other dogs are vying for the same spot on the social ladder.

Prepare the enviroment. Preparing your home for the introduction of a pup involves talking to your veterinarian to ensure proper puppy/breed selection prior to adoption, removing hazards, setting up a quiet retreat such as a covered crate, preventing unsupervised access to other pets and children, investigating puppy classes in your area that encourage socialization, and having a supply of delicious treats and toys on hand. It is ideal to bring any new puppy home around 8 weeks (after weaning) as the period for optimal socialization is about 3-12 weeks of age.

Classical conditioning method. Dogs deprived of human interaction during this time have reduced ability to adjust to new people, animals, and experiences. For psychology buffs, socialization is about classical conditioning: creating a positive association between two stimuli or events. Most puppies see play and food as a positive reward. Realistic interactions with not only the family members, but anyone the puppy may eventually encounter (crying babies, senior citizens with walkers) in a positive way should be immediately rewarded.

Generally, it’s too overwhelming for a new puppy to visit a pet superstore, teaming with too much of the wrong kind of stimulation. Just as important, educate young people interacting with the dog on how to gently play and pet and eliminate teasing or physical punishment.

Dog classes intended to promote socialization and positive interaction between other humans and pets are held in private training facilities, at veterinary clinics, and even at pet stores. Make sure all puppies are healthy and current on vaccinations and deworming prior to attending class.

Introducing Adult Dog in a new home. Introducing an adult dog to a new home, with or without existing pets, should be a gradual transition. By providing a separate, safe space for the new dog, he can become accustomed to routines, smells, and the social hierarchy which may exist among the original pets.

A neutral place, such as a mudroom or den as opposed to a desirable bedroom or kitchen location, is the preferred area to have dogs great each other while leashed and while feeding treats and giving praise. Dogs can also greet each other by sniffing under doorways or from across the room in individual crates if they show signs of agitation or body language indicates stress in closer proximity.

Allow the new dog supervised, gradual exploration of the home and yard. By reinforcing original pets’ social standing by feeding and attending to them first, less conflict arises. Petting dogs in each other’s company, when both are calm and “okay”, also reinforces the idea that good things happen when the other dog is present. Likewise, rewards should come when a new dog is introduced to other dogs on walks, children, or other social situations when behaving calmly.

Training. Training classes for adult dogs not only provide controlled exposure to new stimuli but can help teach you and your dog obedience commands which are necessary to control your dog and reassure them in confusing or scary situations. Though the critical window of socialization has closed for adult dogs, that doesn’t mean that they can’t learn to tolerate and even enjoy new interactions.

Dogs with known aggression issues can often live harmoniously with other dogs and humans. Vigilance and supervision, control, consistency, education, and awareness of body language and cues are keys to integrating a dog with behavioral problems into a home.

A veterinarian and trainer should be consulted when considering adopting or retaining such a dog in your home as they may pose a safety hazard to themselves and others. While some behavioral issues can be mitigated, a dog is still an animal and may respond in unpredictable or instinctual ways. Start smart and socialize responsibly!

Disaster Preparedness: Preparing Your Pet For an Emergency

Pet Safety

pet emergency disaster preparedness

June is National Pet Preparedness Month, which gives us pet owners a reminder of what to do in case of an emergency or natural disaster. Natural disasters such as tornadoes, earthquakes, and floods are certainly one category of catastrophe, but what if you were left unable to care for your pet due to sudden illness or injury?

Dogs and cats are among our most vulnerable populations and preparing for any type of emergency or natural disaster is wise. Let’s talk about disaster preparedness with the intention of keeping your pet safe and healthy, and the goal being reunited should you become separated in an emergency.

Pet Emergency Safety Tips

Create an action plan: The first step to prepare for an emergency is to generate a family action plan, which includes identifying escape routes from your home, interior spaces with no windows, areas with access to fresh water, as well as boarding facilities, pet-friendly hotels, or family residences where you can stay should you need to evacuate your home.

Helpful tools and resources: If your home isn’t safe for you, it isn’t safe for your pet; make sure to include a labeled carrier and extra leash as part of your supply kit. Mobile apps like the NOAA and ASPCA apps allow you access up-to-date information on weather, pet support and recovery networks, and contain record-keeping features.

Download these apps before you need them. Should you have to leave your pet or if you become separated, make sure to have a sticker visible from outside your house that includes the number and type of animals in the home as well as an emergency number where you can be reached.

Microchip your pet: Permanent microchip identification is recommended for all pets in addition to a collar with ID and can be quickly implanted by your veterinarian. Make sure to keep your contact information as well as your pet’s information current in the online registry.

Emergency contacts: For personal emergencies where your pet may be left alone in your home, designate a neighbor or friend familiar with your pet to assume responsibilities for care. Leave the “foster parent” a set of keys, supply of food and medications as well as feeding instructions and the phone number to your veterinary clinic.

pet kit

Pet Supplies in Your Emergency Kit

Every family should have a smaller emergency kit suitable for traveling as well as emergency supplies that can keep you nourished and safe in a disaster. In some cases, emergency services may not be able to reach you or provide shelter for your pet for several days.

Keep an additional emergency kit for your dog or cat to ensure their safety. Be mindful that food and medications can expire, so refresh supplies often.

A week supply of canned food and bottled water as well as a two-week stash of medication is ideal. A first aid kit, photo of you and your pet to generate LOST posters, important phone numbers of family members, your vet clinic, and an emergency clinic are critical.

Keep items in waterproof bags and include medical records, a muzzle if needed to transport a scared or aggressive pet, soap, alcohol-based hand sanitizer, self-stick gauze, and plastic bags for pet waste clean-up.

Feeding bowls, a blanket, and a familiar chew toy are good to keep with your pet and may provide some comfort during an emergency. For cats, a pillowcase, hard-sided carrier, and a litter pan and litter are essential.

May you never need to use your emergency kit. But when you’re pets are prepared for an emergency or disaster, the likelihood of safely weathering any storm is high.

Sources
ASPCA Disaster Preparedness
Humane Society Pet First Aid Kit

Recommended Types of Dog Toys to Buy for your Furry Friend

Dog Activities

dog toys

The warm weather and summer vacations make it easier to work on dog training and dedicate time to establishing a strong bond with your pet. One of the most common questions new pet owners ask are what are the best dog toys to buy or recommended chew toys that are safe and indestructible for dogs? Here’s the scoop on some kinds of dog toys to check out!

Interactive & Chew Dog Toys to Buy

There are a ton of exciting new and old-stand by toys guaranteed to keep your dog busy for hours. Interactive dog toys can stimulate your dogs senses and the best interactive dog toys include unique features that peak your dogs interest like unusual sounds from dog squeeker toys, movements and contents. Finding the best chew toy is a little bit like the story of the three bears. You want one that is not too hard to avoid teeth damage, nor too soft that the toy gets destroyed within minutes. Not only can dog chew toys provide stimulation to keep your dog’s mind and body busy, but some promote good dental hygiene too!

Interactive dog toys are a fabulous routine buster and a great diversion on hot weather or rainy days. Made of cotton canvas, non-toxic dye, and industrial grade polypropylene rope, Mr. Dog Toy New York makes a trophy collection interactive dog toys suitable for fetching, tugging, and chewing that can be purchased online. We’re fascinated that a stuffed toy like this is durable for your dog to put to the test! There’s also several other interactive dog toys you can find such as puzzles, treat dispensing chew toys, and tugging. The positive reinforcement and mental stimulation are sure to have them coming back for more!

Elk Antlers, bully sticks, and synthetic rubber toys made by Kong are all found side by side on the pet store shelves and are great chews to offer your dog. Important considerations include the durability of these dog toys, as they are meant to be long-lasting. Another recommendation is to identify where the chew is sourced. Salmonella and E.coli have been found on rawhide’s not made in America, so its recommended to buy local.

Dental Dog Chews & Treats

Some dental dog chews are specifically designed and approved by the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) to facilitate the removal of plaque by mechanical forces and impede bacterial growth. Do consider that any edible treat adds calories to your pet’s diet. Check labels and know that treats should only contribute 10% to overall intake.

Oravet daily dental hygiene chews, sold through your veterinarian, loosen and scrub away existing plaque and a special ingredient works to create a barrier preventing new bacteria from attaching. No more bad breath! Best yet, they smell like vanilla and dogs love them. Greenies and Virbac CET chews are other products approved by the VOHC to improve oral hygiene and reduce plaque and tartar. These can be found at your local big box pet retailer.

It’s always best to closely monitor your dog when they consume dental treats & play with chew toys. Pieces can break off and become lodged in the gastrointestinal tract or swallowed whole and quickly cause an obstruction. Here’s to safe play time and less chewing on the couch, walls and shoes!

Dog Days of Summer: Keeping Your Dog Cool in the Summer Heat

Pet Safety

keep dog cool in the summer

Hot town, summer in the city. We’ve rolled right into high-degree days, bypassing the comfortable temperatures of spring. If the outdoor temperature is miserable for us, it’s even more unbearable for our pets. Dogs “sweat” very inefficiently through the few sweat glands in their footpads and 80% of body temperature is reduced by panting. When high hot temperatures are combined with high humidity, lack of ventilation, shade, or access to water, dogs are especially prone to overheating. Here a few ways to determine signs of heatstroke and ways to keeping your dog cool in the summer.

Tips to Keep Your Dog Cool in the Summer

If you are planning on traveling with your dog or spending some time outdoors with your dog, here are some helpful tips to keep your dog cool in the summer heat.

Shade. Find a grassy area under a tree or spot of cool concrete for your dog to cool down. Not only is the air temperature more comfortable, but light-coated dogs or those with exposed skin are less likely to get a sunburn. Cooling pads, such as The Green Pet Shop Self-Cooling Pet Pad contain a gel that absorbs body heat and stays cool when pressure is applied.

Water. Keep plenty of clean, cold water available to keep your dog cool in the summer. Staying hydrated and cool from the inside out is extremely important on hot summer days. There are many collapsible bowls on the market that are portable and can be used when playing outside. Inexpensive plastic pools can be filled in the yard, so your dog can immerse himself and keep body temperature regulated. Swimming in a pool or clean lake is a great way to for us and dogs to cool off in the summer heat.

Limit exercise. Walk in the early morning or evening and avoid hot asphalt. If possible, limit walks to grassy areas and remember to bring water. Dog booties can be worn if asphalt is unavoidable.

Ventilation. A fan provides a limited amount of relief from hot weather and airflow is important. A doghouse can act like a hot car, and enclosed spaces (without A/C) should be avoided. Remember, a dog must pant to cool off and evaporative cooling is difficult above 90 degrees; even less when there is high humidity and poor circulation. Try blowing a fan over ice cubes to beat the heat.

Keep the coat. Because dogs don’t have sweat glands in their skin like humans, shaving their coats doesn’t provide relief. In fact, the first downy layer of a dog’s coat acts like insulation, keeping them cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. In addition, shaving a dog exposes their skin to the sun which can lead to burns and melanoma.

Get in the kitchen. Mix up a batch of homemade dog treats to cool them off in the hot weather days. See a Peanut Butter Popsicle recipe below!

Dog Overheated? Signs of Heatstroke

Signs of heatstroke can be observed when a dog’s body temperature rises to 104 degrees and above. Inside a car on an 85-degree day, even with the windows cracked, temperatures reach 120 degrees in 20 minutes! Don’t leave your dog unattended in a vehicle as there is no way to keep a dog cool in the car and no air is really passing through. Signs of heatstroke can include: heavy panting, glazed eyes, a fast heartbeat, difficulty breathing, excessive thirst, lethargy, fever, dizziness, lack of coordination, excessive salivation, vomiting, a deep red or purple tongue, seizure, and finally, unconsciousness.

Especially susceptible are the old and very young puppies, obese pets, dogs breeds with short muzzles (Bulldogs, Pugs, Boston Terrier and other brachycephalic breeds) and Arctic breeds like the Siberian Husky. A handy reference chart was developed by veterinarians at Tufts University that gives an idea what outdoor temperatures might be considered safe for your dog based on their body weight and physical condition. Take your pet’s individual physiology into consideration when deciding what is safe; staying inside is sometimes best for pets!

Homemade Frozen Dog Treats For Summer

DIY Peanut Butter Popsicles For Dogs

Ingredients

  • 1 cup peanut butter, preferably unsalted and unsweetened (Check your peanut butter’s label to make sure it doesn’t contain any kind of xylitol, which is toxic to dogs.)
  • Half a ripe banana, mashed
  • Water as needed

Directions

In a small mixing bowl, combine peanut butter with a little water or half a mashed banana. (The water and banana aren’t essential, but they help with freezing consistency.)

Line a cookie sheet with wax paper, or use Kong-style rubber toys that have a cavity you can fill.

Spoon the mixture onto the tray just like you would cookie dough, or stuff it into the toys. Freeze the tray or toys for several hours or overnight. If you need to reuse the tray right away, pop out the cubes and store them in a bag or container in the freezer.

Enjoy on those days when nothing else will do!

Poisonous Plants to Dogs – Avoid Toxic Flowers in the Garden

Pet Safety

poisonous plants for dogs

With spring weather finally cooperating and hitting warmer temperatures throughout the United States, it’s time to get annual plants in the ground. Like most of you, part of the season I enjoy most is throwing the ball to my dogs in the yard and watching them get taunted by the squirrels. We are fortunate to have areas dedicated to annual flowers, perennial shrubs, and an edible garden. Unfortunately, some of the plants I enjoy watching bloom can be toxic to dogs and it pays to consider which flowers and plants you have in the garden this spring season.

Treatment if Toxic Plants Are Ingested

Below follows a list of the most common dangerous plants and flowers that dogs shouldn’t eat and what signs and symptoms may be present if consumed. We will cover a dog first aid kit in a future article, but it always makes sense to have a bottle of dawn dish soap, Hydrogen Peroxide, as well as a bottle of saline to rinse the eyes and the mouth if an irritant is introduced. After administering hydrogen peroxide, vomiting typically ensues within 10 minutes. This may mitigate some of the more harmful effects of the poisonous plant. That being said, always consult your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at their 24-hour emergency number, (888) 426-4435. Sometimes the damage of an irritating substance coming up can do as much or more damage than the item going down.

Currently, a $65 charge per case is applied to a credit card, but their expert advice may just save your dog’s life. It should also be noted that consuming any vegetation can cause gastrointestinal signs such as vomiting and diarrhea and may be dose related. This seems counter-productive as many dogs will eat grass to soothe an upset tummy but tell that to your pup! Some of the spring flowers you should avoid planting can cause almost immediate effects. Others take hours for their toxic chemicals to produce symptoms.

Plants & Flowers Poisonous to Dogs

Edible Garden

Onion or Allium family: This includes garlic bulbs, chives, leeks, and flowering alliums. They contain a chemical called N-propyl disulfide which is concentrated in the plant bulbs.
Clinical Signs: Vomiting, breakdown of red blood cells, blood in the urine, weakness, high heart rate, panting

Citrus Fruits like Lime: Contain Essential oils and psoralens
Clinical Signs: Vomiting, diarrhea, depression; potential dermatitis or skin irritation. Fruit is edible, skins and plant material can cause problems

Tomato Plant (leaves, unripe fruit) and Nightshade: Contains Solanine
Clinical Signs: Hypersalivation, inappetence, severe gastrointestinal upset, depression/drowsiness

Macadamia Nuts: toxin unknown
Clinical signs: depression, weakness (especially of rear limbs), vomiting, tremors.

Marjoram, Thyme, and Mint: Contains Essential oils
Clinical Signs: depression, weakness (especially of rear limbs), vomiting, tremors.

Apples, plums, cherry trees: Stems, leaves, seeds contain cyanide, particularly toxic in the process of wilting
Clinical signs: brick red mucous membranes, dilated pupils, difficulty breathing, panting, shock.

Non-Edible Garden

Foxglove or digitalis: Among the most toxic of plants in the flower garden containing Cardiac glycosides
Clinical Signs: Heart arrhythmias, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, cardiac failure, death.

Daisies and anything in the chrysanthemum family: Contain Sesquiterpene, lactones, pyrethrins and other potential irritants
Clinical Signs: Vomiting, diarrhea, hypersalivation, incoordination, dermatitis

Ivy, any variety: Contain Triterpenoid saponins (hederagenin)
Clinical Signs: Vomiting, abdominal pain, hypersalivation, diarrhea. The leaves are more toxic than berries

Geraniums: Geraniol, linalool are the toxins present
Clinical Signs: Vomiting, anorexia, depression, dermatitis

Hellebore or Christmas Rose: Bufadienolides, glycosides, veratrin and prtoanemonin are some of the toxins
Clinical Signs: Drooling, abdominal pain and diarrhea, and depression

Hostas: Part of the Lily family. Saponins cause symptoms.
Clinical Signs: Vomiting, diarrhea, depression.

Lily of the Valley: Cardenolides (convallarin, and others)
Clinical Signs: Vomiting, irregular heartbeat, low blood pressure, disorientation, coma, seizures

Coleus: Essential Oils
Clinical Signs: Vomiting, diarrhea, depression, anorexia, occasionally bloody diarrhea, or vomiting

Irises: Pentacylic terpenoids (zeorin, missourin and missouriensin) are highly concentrated in the rhizomes.
Clinical Signs: Salivation, vomiting, drooling, lethargy, diarrhea.

Rhododendrons: Ingestion of a few leaves can cause serious problems due to Grayantoxin.
Clinical Signs: Vomiting, diarrhea, hypersalivation, weakness, coma, hypotension, nervous system depression, cardiovascular collapse, and death.

Burning bush: Contain alkaloids
Clinical Signs: Vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, weakness. Heart rhythm abnormalities with large doses.

Black Walnut found most often in mulch:
Clinical Signs: moldy nuts/hulls can cause tremors and seizures, ingestion of shavings can cause incoordination

Yew: Contains Taxine A and B, and volatile oils
Clinical Signs: Tremors, difficulty breathing, vomiting, seizures (dogs), sudden death from heart failure.

Yarrow: Achilleine and alkaloids.
Clinical Signs: Increased urination, vomiting, diarrhea, dermatitis.

Tulips and daffodils: While we are seeing the beautiful spring flowers, their planting season is actually in the fall. The bulbs deep in the ground contain the most harmful part of the plant. So, while the flower itself is not dangerous, use caution when planting throughout the year.
Clinical Signs: vomiting, depression, diarrhea, and hypersalivation; large amounts cause convulsions, low blood pressure, tremors, and cardiac arrhythmias.

Don’t let the laundry list of scary flora deter you from enjoying the garden with your dog. The following is a list of vet-approved plants. See you outside!

Alyssum, Squash, Impatiens, Baby’s Breath, Basil, Blue Eyed Daisy, Chickens and Hens, Cinquefoil, Cilantro, Snapdragons, Coreopsis, Cornflower, Day Lilies (toxic to cats), Ferns, Marigolds, Asters, Red Maple, and Zinnias.

Protect Your Dog From Fleas & Ticks This Season

Pet Safety

itchy scratching dog

Fleas and ticks can, unfortunately, find their forever homes on dogs. Preventing fleas and ticks has come a long way with topical products that can be applied as often as monthly, or oral pills that are both tasty and effective at eliminating many life stages of the flea and tick.

Here are some important facts on fleas and ticks and how to keep your pets safe from them.

What are Fleas?

Fleas are tiny parasites that require the blood meal of a mammal or bird to survive and reproduce. While they need warm, humid temperatures to thrive (our friends in the south have particularly bad flea problems), the larvae and pupa can overwinter in the house or on animals like coyotes and rabbits and their dens, extending their life cycle from several weeks to many months.

Fleas tend to hang out in the same areas that are popular with your dog and other wildlife: shady areas out of direct sunlight and direct foot traffic. The flea life cycle is complex, consisting of four stages: egg, larvae, pupa, and adult. Because some of these life stages occur off the host (your dog or cat), prevention and treatment for fleas and ticks targeted at several of these stages works best.

Flea Prevention & Treatment

First off, we want to treat the environment and make it an inhospitable place for fleas to live. Clearing brush, keeping grass cut short, and raking leaf piles are great at eliminating flea hide-outs. Inside, frequent vacuuming to stimulate egg hatching and laundering bedding daily is important if you suspect a flea infestation. Next, you’ll want to utilize one of the many products available from your veterinarian to kill adults, larvae, and eggs.

Some popular preventatives include:

Over the counter products can not only be ineffective (think flea collars), but dangerous to pets. Flea preventatives work by sterilizing the adult flea (flea birth control, if you will), others work via overstimulating the flea central nervous system. Treated hairs can also work to kill larva and eggs in the environment. Because new eggs shed into the house or yard are constantly hatching, it is important to treat consecutively every month to kill emergent fleas. An adult flea can produce 500 eggs in just a few weeks!

A flea comb can be utilized to find live fleas on your dog, though most pet owners aren’t fast enough to catch a hopping flea. Tell-tale signs of a flea problem are itching or biting near the tail base and evidence of a black pepper-like granule (flea poop) in the fur that turns reddish on a damp paper towel. That red coloration is digested blood. Fleas can cause an allergic response to their saliva in some dogs; one bite can cause severe hair loss and scratching. A heavy infestation can lead to low red blood cell count, transmission of tapeworms, or diseases such as the plague or typhus.

tick on dog

How Are Ticks & Fleas Different?

Similarly, ticks love to live in outdoor areas such as wood piles, yard clippings, or attached to hosts such as mice and deer. True opportunists, they wait to attach to an unsuspecting mammal as they brush past. Ticks become most active as the temperatures rise above freezing. This fools many dog owners into thinking they can forgo preventatives from December to March. Ticks don’t typically leave tiny poop calling cards like fleas. Many times, they are not discovered on your dog until they have been attached for days to weeks and are engorged with blood.

Ticks also have a four-part life cycle, and other than the egg, each stage including the larva, nymph and adult needs a blood meal to survive. The complete life cycle can take two years to complete and an adult tick can produce up to 3,000 eggs. Frighteningly, the larva stage of the tick which will attach to a host animal is no bigger that the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Imagine finding that in your dog’s fur!

Ticks are tremendously dangerous to dogs and humans because they transmit devastating and sometimes hard to treat diseases. The deer tick is most commonly known for its ability to spread Lyme Disease.

Tick Prevention & Treatment

Because it takes 24 hours of tick attachment to infect a host with disease, prompt identification and removal is critical. If you spend time outdoors with your pet, do a tick check of the skin and hair coat after returning home. Ticks especially love to set up shop on a dog’s ear flaps. If you see an embedded tick…

  1. Grasp its head as close to the skin as possible with a pair of tweezers.
  2. Pull the entire tick out in one swift movement.
  3. It’s okay if you get a bit of dog with your tick – just clean the area with soap and water and apply a triple antibiotic ointment to the bite.

Many of the same preventatives we use for flea control are also effective at repelling and/or killing ticks during that 24-hour window of attachment. Consistent use is important and recognize if your dog is boarded or groomed, it can pick up parasites from other dogs. Yard treatments are also available to kill ticks and fleas. It’s best to consult a company that specializes in such treatment as some chemicals can be harmful to humans on pets.

What Is My Dog Trying To Tell Me? Understanding Dog Body Language

Dog Behavior

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It’s not all that challenging to determine what your dog is trying to tell you when he sits longing next to the table, a rope of saliva trailing the floor, staring at the juicy burger you are bringing to your lips. But how about when he yawns while you are vacuuming? Does housekeeping bore him? How about when he bows down on his front legs, rear end in the air, when you get home from yoga class? Is he showing off his own downward facing dog pose?

As a veterinarian, I can’t tell you how helpful it would be if dogs (and especially cats) could talk; I know my pediatrician feels the same about his youngest charges.  The good news for vets, pets, and their owners is that years of research on dog behavior and body language has given us plenty of insight into what those eyebrow raises, tail flicks, and curled lips might mean.  Deciphering behavior using body language cues helps me determine if a pet is in pain, anxious, happy to see me, or stressed, and it can help you bond with your dog and possibly head off an altercation between animals or know when your canine has discovered a new best friend.

What Does it Mean When Dogs Bark, Howl, or Whine?

First, it helps to remember that dog DNA is closely related to that of its ancestors, wild dogs and wolves. As pack animals, there is a hierarchy in the group that is determined by social cues such as verbal sounds, body stance, tail position and facial expression.

Canine vocal sounds are usually the simplest of the clues humans can utilize to decide what a dog is trying to tell you. Whining: a high pitched soft sound can be heard from a dog that is in pain, anxious, frustrated or seeking attention when a bark has been discouraged. A whine and a whimper can sound similar.  A bark, depending on the frequency, volume, and duration, can be used as an alert (read: the evil UPS man is coming to the door), to express excitement (accompanied by a tail wag and a grin), and as a sign of aggression when it is low pitched. Howling dogs may be anxious (think separation anxiety), attention-seeking, or trying to locate their “pack”. How about the dog that howls at the tv or a police siren? Those dogs may be telling the tv canine “hey, I’m here!” and possibly to back off their territory.

We can use body language along with vocalizations to best determine a dog’s emotional state.  When in doubt, approach an unfamiliar dog slowly and from the side, avoiding eye contact which is threatening.  Likewise, don’t reach over a dog’s head when first physically interacting.  Some fearful or reactive dogs may see this as a scary gesture and reactive aggressively or back away, even if your pat was well intentioned.

Dog Body Language Is Relaxed and Approachable

So, what does a relaxed, happy, and approachable dog look like? In its most comfortable, unthreatened state, a dog may be lying on its belly, back legs splayed like a frog, on its back with the belly exposed and tail loose, or on the side with the eyes closed and legs extended. The dog’s ears are also relaxed and limp. In this position, the dog would be vulnerable to another animal or human and its reaction time would be delayed if attacked.  Clearly, this is a dog that has no fear of an enemy! When standing, a content dog has its ears up but not forward, may have its tongue hanging out of a partially open mouth, a loose body with weight placed evenly on all four feet, head held high, and the tail down and relaxed.  If approached, this dog may give a wag and a wiggle and come closer to be stroked.

Now picture this same dog who has detected the movement of a chipmunk.  Alert and interested, the dog may close his mouth and tip his ears forward. His body weight may also shift to the front feet, ready to move if necessary.  The tail will be held horizontally to the ground, possibly with a slight twitch, and the eyes will be wide open.

Understanding Dog Behavior With Other Canines

Let’s bring our pet to the dog park, where a particularly dominant dog is chasing our pup relentlessly and aggressively, possibly biting at his ears, and rolling him to the ground.  Afraid? You bet! The fearful, submissive dog may roll on his back, tail pulled between his legs and may urinate.  He will roll his head to the side but keep his eyelids open to watch for trouble, though any eye contact will be brief and indirect.  His lips will be back, and mouth closed, or he may lick at the air or the dominant dog.  The ears are generally flat and pulled back as well.  Fido is scared and wants to head off further confrontation and attention! Yawning is also a sign of stress and anxiety in dogs.  If we had been observant, we may have noticed this cue as well as a tucked tail as soon as Bruiser showed up.

And what about Bruiser? How can you tell a dog who is playing from a dog who is an aggressive bully?  A dog bowing forward on its front legs, wagging its tail like a flag, with the ears erect and lips curved into a grin with the tongue out is giving the signal, “game on!” Usually, the dog remains in this position for just a few seconds before breaking into a “catch me if you can” type run.  A play bow is distinctly different from the dog that approaches another dog with his hackles raised, a penetrating, unbreaking stare, body position forward, nose wrinkled, a stiff tail, and teeth partially visible. Back off without making eye contact and alert Bruiser’s owner that things are about to get ugly.

I hope these tips give you a little better idea what your dog may be trying to say. Be watchful of your body language as well as to those canines around you. Maybe even try a play bow next time you are home and watch your dog bounce with joy!

Pet Safety: Safe Foods Dogs Can Eat On Thanksgiving

Pet Safety

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Next time you are the pet store picking up a bag of kibble, check out the ingredients in some popular brands of dog food.  The lists read like a veritable Thanksgiving Day menu: sweet potatoes, turkey, peas, white potatoes, carrots, pumpkin and cranberries.  As the lines blur between pet food diets and what we feed our human holiday guests, it is a good idea to clear up some common misconceptions about safe and dangerous Thanksgiving meals for dogs, so they can join the party!

Thanksgiving Table Decorations To Watch Out For

During the holiday preparations, we may overlook the dog in the corner munching on a mum or an amaryllis.  Both plants, as well as macadamia nuts, holly, English ivy, cyclamen, and Christmas rose are all found on the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center’s list of toxic plants.  Ingesting modest quantities will generally cause vomiting, diarrhea, depression, and excessive salivation so it’s best to keep any plants high out of reach of a rogue canine.

The kitchen! Home to all varieties of delicious smells, tastes, and frenzied activity.  Dough rising in the corner for dinner rolls? Should your dog eat raw dough, be prepared for a host of potential problems including bowel obstruction and bloat as the dough continues to rise and release gases INSIDE your dog’s belly.  As the yeast ferments, ethanol is produced.

Think an over-served relative is bad news? A drunk dog is no laughing matter; watch for signs of drooling, difficulty walking, weakness, low blood pressure, body temperature, vomiting, and seizures in an intoxicated pet. Raw or under-cooked meat waiting for the deep fryer can also be dangerous to your dog.  In addition to bones which can puncture the esophagus, stomach, intestines, or become lodged in the mouth, Salmonella and E.coli love to live on raw turkey.  Ingesting these bacteria may cause vomiting and diarrhea in your dog which may lead to secondary exposure by unsuspecting guests.

Safe Thanksgiving Foods For Dogs

Can your dog eat cooked turkey? For most otherwise healthy dogs with no food allergies or intolerances, the answer is yes! A good rule of thumb is to feed your dog no more than 10% of his daily calories in treat form or suffer the consequences (read: diarrhea).

Skinless, boneless white meat is low in fat and calories and is easy to digest for most dogs.  Likewise, canned or cooked pumpkin (NOT pumpkin pie filling with sugar and spices) is a great source of fiber and Vitamin A; 1-2 Tablespoons can be added to your dog’s dish without leading to excessive gas or loose stools.

Mashed or cooked white potatoes or sweet potatoes are also a delicious treat; set aside some safe starches before you add butter, salt, milk, cheese, gravy, and especially garlic or onions (both on the naughty list and can cause red blood cell damage!).  And please, no gravy!

Traditional Thanksgiving foods like cranberries can be eaten in very small amounts before being doctored with sugar and other goodness.  And while they may look similar, grapes and raisins are known to cause kidney disease in dogs and are to be avoided.  Plain green beans and peas are tasty and healthy! Add a few to your dog’s Thanksgiving plate.

Sweet Treats Dogs Can and Cannot Eat 

No meal is complete without dessert. Chocolate is a definite no-no; the caffeine and theobromine cause nervous system stimulation, gastrointestinal upset, and even death in high enough doses.  All chocolate is not created equal; dark chocolate and baking chocolate, i.e. the “good stuff”, contains more of the “bad stuff” and will cause toxicity in smaller quantities.  Size does matter.  A smaller dog will become ill eating the same amount of chocolate as a larger pet.

Those of you trying to minimize the calorie load in your Thanksgiving meal need to be sure sweeteners containing xylitol aren’t accessible to dogs. The no-calorie sweetener can be found in some peanut butters, gum, mints, pudding snacks, and some baked goods.  Unlike humans, dogs consuming xylitol experience a massive release of insulin which can cause low blood sugar, weakness, seizures, and liver failure.  If you like to spoil your pet, apples, carob chips, and frozen banana bites are safe Thanksgiving indulgences for your dog.

Most of all, make sure your guests are on the same page when it comes to sharing their Thanksgiving food.  If everyone gives your dog a “tiny” bit of turkey, tummy troubles or even a serious case of pancreatitis could send you to the vet. It’s also important to remember to feed your dog his Thanksgiving dish IN his dish and not from your hand or the table.  Bad behavior can begin or be reinforced during the frenetic holidays.

Be mindful of these tips and you can be thankful you avoided a Thanksgiving trip to the Animal ER!

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